How Much Does It Cost to Run a Refrigerator?
A modern full-size refrigerator averages about 150 watts of continuous draw after factoring in compressor cycling. At the 2024 US average rate of $0.16/kWh, that is roughly $0.58 a day, $17.28 a month, and $210 a year. The fridge is one of the few appliances that runs 24/7/365, but each individual hour is cheap — the trick is finding the right number to use (cycling, not peak nameplate watts).
Want to estimate your specific fridge or rate? Use the appliance cost calculator or see how the fridge compares to other always-on loads on the efficiency rankings.
Why “Watts” on the Sticker Misleads You
A fridge's nameplate shows the peak power its compressor pulls — often 300-800W. But the compressor only runs about 30-40% of the time. It cycles on, pulls the box temperature down, then shuts off until the temperature drifts back up.
The honest number to use for cost is average daily kWh— which the federal Energy Guide yellow sticker prints directly on every new fridge as “Estimated Yearly Energy Use.”
Cost per year = annual kWh × price per kWh
Worked example (550 kWh/year, $0.16/kWh): 550 × $0.16 = $88 per year.
Cost by Refrigerator's Annual kWh
Find your fridge's annual kWh on its Energy Guide sticker (still on most units, or look up the model online). This table converts that to monthly and yearly cost at common electricity rates.
| Annual kWh | Avg watts | Cost per day | Cost per month | Cost per year |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 400 kWh (modern Energy Star) | 46W | $0.18 | $5.26 | $64 |
| 550 kWh | 63W | $0.24 | $7.23 | $88 |
| 700 kWh | 80W | $0.31 | $9.21 | $112 |
| 900 kWh (older / oversized) | 103W | $0.39 | $11.84 | $144 |
Cost by Refrigerator Type
Different fridge styles draw very different amounts of electricity. Side-by-side and French-door fridges use 15-25% more than equivalent top-freezer models because of their larger door surface. All figures are estimated average draw at $0.16/kWh.
| Fridge type | Avg watts | Annual kWh | Cost per month | Cost per year |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mini fridge (4-5 cu ft) | 50W | 250 | $3.33 | $40 |
| Energy Star top-freezer (18-21 cu ft) | 50W | 400 | $5.33 | $64 |
| Standard top-freezer (18-21 cu ft) | 65W | 550 | $7.33 | $88 |
| French-door / side-by-side (25+ cu ft) | 90W | 750 | $10.00 | $120 |
| Older fridge (pre-2010) | 130W | 1,100 | $14.67 | $176 |
Annual Cost by Electricity Rate
Your electricity rate makes a noticeable difference even on something as efficient as a fridge. The table shows yearly cost across common US rates and fridge efficiency levels.
| Rate ($/kWh) | 400 kWh/yr | 550 kWh/yr | 700 kWh/yr | 900 kWh/yr |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| $0.10 | $40 | $55 | $70 | $90 |
| $0.13 | $52 | $72 | $91 | $117 |
| $0.16 (US avg) | $64 | $88 | $112 | $144 |
| $0.20 | $80 | $110 | $140 | $180 |
| $0.30 | $120 | $165 | $210 | $270 |
Why Refrigerators Cost What They Do
They run 24/7/365 — but cycle
Unlike a dryer or AC, a fridge is never “off.” What changes is how much of the day the compressor actually runs. Modern fridges with inverter compressors run at lower power for longer; older fridges blast on at full power, then shut off. Both end up at roughly 30-40% duty cycle over the day.
Newer = dramatically cheaper
Federal efficiency standards have cut typical fridge energy use by more than half since the 1990s. A 1995 fridge used 1,200-1,500 kWh/year; a 2024 Energy Star fridge of the same size uses 400-500 kWh/year. If your fridge predates 2010, it is almost certainly costing you $50-$100+ a year more than a replacement would.
Bigger boxes cost more — but not linearly
A 25 cu ft side-by-side uses about 50% more electricity than a 21 cu ft top-freezer, even though the volume only goes up 20%. That is because side-by-side designs have more door seal length and a hotter ice/water dispenser system. If cost matters, top-freezer is the cheapest format to own.
Tips to Lower Your Cost
Set the fridge to 37°F
Anything colder than 37°F has no food safety benefit. Lifting the setpoint a few degrees can cut compressor runtime 10-25%.
Vacuum the back coils twice a year
Dust on the condenser coils insulates them, forcing the compressor to run longer. A 2-minute clean saves 5-15%.
Unplug the second fridge
A half-empty garage fridge can cost $80-$150 a year. If you don't fill it regularly, unplug it.
Check the door seal
A worn gasket lets cold air leak out 24/7. Close a dollar bill in the door — if it pulls out easily, replace the seal. See our energy savings guide.
Recommended picks
Cheap Ways to Cut Fridge Costs
Because a fridge runs 24/7, even small efficiency improvements compound across the whole year. These categories cover the highest-ROI fixes — most cost less than $20.
Energy Star Refrigerator
20%+ less electricity
An Energy Star fridge uses at least 9% less than the federal standard and often 20-30% less than a pre-2010 model — typically $30-$80 a year saved.
Refrigerator Coil Cleaning Brush
$5 maintenance fix
Dusty condenser coils make the compressor run longer. A 2-minute clean every 6 months can lower fridge energy use by 5-15%.
Smart Plug Energy Monitor
Measure actual draw
Plug-in monitor or smart plug tracks how many kWh your fridge actually uses per day — far more accurate than guessing from the nameplate.
Refrigerator Thermometer
Avoid over-cooling
Setting your fridge to 37°F instead of 33°F can cut compressor runtime 10-25%. A $5 thermometer makes sure you're not running colder than needed.
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Related Guides
Refrigerator Cost Per Month (By Model Size)
Monthly cost broken down by mini, top-freezer, French door, side-by-side
Most Efficient Appliances
See which appliances cost the most to run
Electricity Rates by State
Find your state's average rate
How to Save on Energy Bills
Practical tips by room with savings
Energy Star Guide
Is upgrading worth the cost?
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to run a refrigerator?
A modern full-size refrigerator averages around 150W continuously after accounting for the compressor cycling on and off. At the 2024 US average rate of $0.16/kWh, that works out to about $0.58 a day, $17.28 a month, and $210 a year. Older or oversized fridges (pre-2010, 25+ cu ft, side-by-side) often cost $120-$200/year, while a modern Energy Star top-freezer can run as low as $50-$70/year.
Why does the fridge nameplate say 600W but it doesn't cost that much?
The nameplate shows peak compressor draw, but a fridge compressor only runs about 30-40% of the time — it cycles on, pulls the temperature down, then shuts off. A fridge labeled at 600W might actually average 150-200W over a full day. The honest number to use for cost estimates is the Energy Guide yellow sticker's annual kWh figure, not the nameplate watts.
How much do I save by replacing my old fridge?
A lot, if it's pre-2010. A 1990s fridge typically uses 1,000-1,400 kWh/year vs 400-500 kWh/year for a new Energy Star model — at $0.16/kWh that's $80-$150 a year saved. Over a 15-year fridge lifespan, that often exceeds the entire purchase price of a new one. Many utilities also offer $50-$100 recycling rebates for hauling away the old one.
Does my second fridge in the garage cost a lot?
Usually more than people realize, especially if it's an older unit. A garage fridge often pulls $80-$150 a year on its own, and even more in unconditioned hot garages where the compressor has to work against high ambient temperatures. Many homeowners save the most by just not running a second fridge unless it's actually full and used.
Does setting the fridge colder cost more?
Yes — and there's no benefit below 37°F for food safety. The FDA recommends 40°F or below; 37°F is the sweet spot. Every degree colder than that means more compressor runtime. Going from 33°F (very cold) to 37°F can cut fridge energy use by 10-25% with no food safety impact.